Manaslu, 8,163m, in Sanskrit “मनास्लु” means “Mountain of the Spirit” (from “Manasa”, Soul).

This great mountain is the eighth highest in the world and is located in the heart of the Himalayan range in central Nepal.
I will climb the north face by the normal route opened by a Japanese expedition in 1956.
I will solo climb in true alpine style without supplemental oxygen this massive giant of ice, snow, and rock.
It would be a wonderful return to Nepal after my trips in 2013 and 2014.

There are two main reasons for this ascent: one personal and spiritual and the other more technical. I can define the first as a kind of “call” to these extremely high peaks, a feeling that comes from deep within me, from my “spirit” that chooses this particular mountain. Climbing to the sky, praying with the lamas in front of the stupas, immersing myself in these magical lands. It’s hard for me to explain the reason for all of this, but I feel the mountain inside me, just as I feel that I am inside it. When I am there, face to face, I will talk to her, confront myself with her and if the Gods who reside on these extremely high and impervious peaks allow it, I will reach the top and make my dreams come true.

The second reason is purely technical and is closely related to the macro-project “7SUMMITS solo Project” launched in South America in 2011, which will have as its final epilogue Asia and then the summit of Everest. Manaslu is not only a mountain that is over 8,000 metres but in many ways it resembles Everest. It takes a long trekking route before reaching the Base Camp, usually you have to set up 4 camps (just like Everest). There are many open crevasses on the way and you will have to use artificial ladders resting on the precipice to cross (just like Everest). The final ascent to reach the summit is a kind of “ladder to the sky”, steep and with exposed rock.
Ultimately, this adventure will be significant to the continuity and preparation for the completion of the great project: “7SUMMITSsoloProject“.

 

Climbing details

It will take me about six days to reach the Base Camp or BC at 4.400 meters. Along the way, I will cross valleys, rivers and dense forests.
From the Base Camp I will begin the long and challenging ascent to the summit and climb the 4 high camps in complete autonomy.

I will place Camp 1 or C1 at an altitude of 5,700mt. after climbing through moraines and areas with ice sails (Icefall).

Camp 2 or C2 (it could also be my Camp1 climbing directly from 4.400mt. of BC to 6.400mt. bringing in this way the high camps from 4 to 3) I plan to place it at 6.400mt. altitude, to reach it. I will have to overcome not only steep ice sections but also areas of cracked ice with pitfalls and hidden dangers.

I will place Camp 3 or C3 at 6,900 meters on a kind of snowy “saddle” that I will reach after a 5-7 hours hike from C2 through areas of snow and ice with various degrees of slope.

Camp4 or C4 will be the last camp before reaching the summit. I will set it up at 7,400 meters on the plateau in front of the summit. From here, I will find myself very close to the death zone, so defined because beyond this altitude there is no acclimatization, only constant physical and mental deterioration with no possibility of recovery unless one descends.
After setting up C4, I will leave the same night for the summit at 8,163mt and then descend.

 

Average physiological parameters at different altitudes

The atmospheric pressure at an altitude below 1.000mt. varies from about 750mmHg to 600mmHg while at 8.000mt. it varies from about 380mmHg to 230mmHg.
The average (theoretical) temperature below 1,000mt. varies from +20°C to +0°C while at 8,000mt. it can vary from -20°C to -45°C.
The saturation of hemoglobin in the blood from 1.000mt. in down (in an individual of healthy constitution) is always superior 95% while to 8.000mt. this value comes down to approximately 65%.
The VO2max that is the maximum consumption of oxygen in % from 0mt. to 1.000mt. . goes from 100% to 95% while at 8.000mt. it is around 10% – 15%.